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Greenland - out of the fog and into the sunshine


As I write this I am sitting at the base of a retreating glacier, listening to the roar of the waterfall created by the melting of the glacier. The waterfalls and hanging glaciers are around every corner of this fjord.

The signs of a changing climate are everywhere here. We compared the 1960s charts for the area with the reality in front of us as we traveled in the fjord by zodiac. The magnitude of the changes is huge. Every glacier we saw was in retreat. The glacier at the end of the fjord once extended 3 miles into the fjord, and adjacent hanging glaciers were connected to this larger glacier, but are no more.

The two students from Greenland - Liv and Ania -  talked about the changes they had been witnessing. There is rarely enough snow during the winter to travel by skiis, they are now able to grow a variety of vegetables and fruit in their gardens, including strawberries, which was not possible until more recently,

Last night we were once again treated to the sight of a group of whales - this time, 9 fin whales which came very close to our ship. It was an exciting encounter, which ended as quickly as it began. All of a sudden the whales simply disappeared. We have had tremendous luck in encountering now only these huge fin whales, but also the group of blue whales from the day before.

All of this is made far more enjoyable, now that I have over come seasickness. About 3/4 of our group succumbed to varying degrees. After our exploration of the Tasermuit Fjord, and visit to the community of Nanortorlik tomorrow, we will be crossing Davis Strait, bound for Labrador and the Torngat Mountains national park.  I hope that the seasickness doesn't return, and that we might see a polar bear. It seems everyone on this trip wants to see Nanuk.